A Style Guide to Men's Custom Suits - Peninsula Tailors Bangkok

A Style Guide to Men’s Custom Suits

5 Do’s for a Perfectly Tailored Suit
July 16, 2018
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A well-tailored suit is hailed superior when it comes to men’s fashion. From the 16th century up to now, men wear coats and tuxedos with intricate designs. Recently, more and more men are inclined to wearing custom suits. Aside from having the perfect fit for your measurements, most custom-made suits are manually shaped and stitched to perfection. Nevertheless, the higher price tag is totally worth it.

There are 5 styles of men’s custom suits available.

American-style suits

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Known for their boxy shape and minimal design, American suits were popularized in the 20th century. Suits with this cut are famous for having these characteristics:

  • Shoulders with moderate padding
  • Peak lapels
  • Slightly tapered waist
  • Flap pockets
  • Single vent
  • Roomy waist
  • Comfortable
  • Good for men with wide middles

English-style suits

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Originated in England, English suits are often preferred due to the fact that they highlight a man’s shape better than boxy American suits. Seen as a more stylish option, these suits feature the following:

  • Shoulders with little to no padding
  • Notch, thin, or peak lapels
  • Tapered waist
  • Flap pockets
  • Dual vents
  • Slims and lengthens the body
  • Must be tailored to fit perfectly

Italian-style suits

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Much like English suits, Italian suits are tailored to fit a man’s physique snugly. This makes it a great option for buff men who want to show off their assets. You’ll know if it’s an Italian suit if it has the following qualities:

  • Shoulders with thick padding
  • Wide, notch lapels
  • Thin, tapered waist
  • No vents
  • Creates an instant inverted triangle silhouette
  • Emanates power and style
  • Fits most body shapes
  • Can be restricting due to lack of vents

Athletic-fit suits

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One of the latest styles of custom suits available today is athletic-fit suits. Since men with athletic body have a more developed upper body, these are designed to provide more room that area, without necessarily pairing them with large boxy trousers. Most athletic suits are seen to have the following:

  • Roomy shoulders with little padding
  • Two-button closure
  • Notch lapels
  • Side vents
  • Thin, tapered waist
  • Slim fit
  • Allows for comfortable movement

Which style suits you?

Buying a suit doesn’t begin at the store, it begins in your head. Ideally, your suit matches your body shape and lifestyle.

  • Shorter men are advised to go for suits with peak lapels to lengthen their torso such as the English suits.
  • For taller men, we recommend choosing coats with patterns to break up the tall frame. Wearing a bigger jacket with minimum cuff (such as American suits) ensures that there is no undershirt sticking out of the button and creates an illusion of shorter arms.
  • Skinny men, on the other hand, will look better on a jacket with thick padding such as Italian suits to make the shoulders look broader and more defined.
  • Plus size body type works better with peak lapels and tapered waist such as English suits. Lighter fabrics and two-button styles help elongate and narrow a large frame.
  • Athletic men must add bulk to the bottom section of the body to create proportion. If you have broader shoulders and a narrow bottom, choose suits with pleats and unstructured shoulders such as athletic-fit suits.

 

 

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